Review: Magic Lantern, for photographers

I don’t do a lot of video, if anything at all. For this reason I, like many others fellow photographers, have ignored till now a piece of software that every respectable videographer uses since the beginning.

I’m talking about Magic Lantern. In short, it is an alternative firmware, free and open source, that works in parallel with the Canon one, unlocking an awful lot of features. I will repeat below the advice that the Magic Lantern team gives: like everything that works on the hardware this firmware can brick and / or destroy your camera. It is highly unlikely, but it is possible. So, if you don’t want to take the risk, please don’t install it.

 

Magic Lantern is not approved nor endorsed by Canon in any way, and using it will probably void your warranty. […] Use this software at your own risk.

 

That said, I haven’t had the slightest problem in installation or in use. And the Magic Lantern team label their last release, the 2.3, as production-ready, meaning that is not a beta anymore.

The last “Unified” stable release works with a bunch of different cameras:
– 5D Mark II
– 50D (you can shot video too!) & 60D
– 500D & 550D & 600D

If you feel adventurous you may try the “Nightly build” – a version still under development – that supports also:
– 7D
– 5D Mark III
– Eos M
– 1100D & T3
– 5D

Here you can find a general introduction to the project, how to install and disinstall it, ect.:

http://magiclantern.wikia.com/wiki/Magic_Lantern_Firmware_Wiki

And at the following link you can get your copy:

http://www.magiclantern.fm/download

 

Now there are many reviews out there written from a videographer point of view. This one will be from a photographer perspective, instead.

 

Pros

I’m really happy with the extra features and the customizability of Magic Lantern, so much that I think that Canon should learn more than a trick or two from them and make those functions available straight from the factory, giving that there are no hardware limitations, but just laziness in writing the firmware.

 

Cons

The only, manageable, cons are:
1) the camera, having more code to load, takes maybe a second more to start. Not a problem whatsoever, at least with the 5D Mark II; I never turn the camera off anyway, unless I’ve done shooting.

2) the Magic Lantern team claims that, for the same reason, the camera drains a bit more juice from the battery. With the camera in standby this goes from the 5%/h of the default firmware up till the 10%/h (a whopping 27%/h on my own camera!) of the Magic Lantern one, depending on how much features are switched on.

 

The features

Now we will examine individually a few of the – tons! – of additional functions enabled on a Canon 5D Mark II by Magic Lantern that are interesting from a photographer – again, not videographer – point of view.

REC PictureStyle

You can choose a different Picture Style for visualization on the Live View screen, with respect to the one you will register your images with.
Really handy if you, like me, tends to shot Raw using the flattest picture styles you can get. The flat style helps keeping the contrast at bay and the highlights in shape, given that you want the maximum possible quality to be delivered to the raw converter of you choice. But at the same time, with a flat style, you can have problems judging your photos and if you achieved the correct focus. Just enable this voice and choose a nice and contrasty Picture Style: problem solved.

Zebras

Zebra stripes that appear on areas under or overexposed – or both, your choice – in real time in Live View. Really invaluable, and you can also set the thresholds for them to appear.

 

Focus peak

Did you hate the Sony Nex cameras, but you wished your own camera had their amazing focus peaking capability? Done.

 

Magic Zoom

This is my favorite function. I actually installed the thing, at first, exclusively to have this. It is – again, a bit like on the Sony Nex – a magnified view (up to 3x, and you can define how large the patch has to be) of the focus point inside the normal view that you can switch on/off just half-pressing the shutter button. This way you can check focus in a breeze and precisely, without loosing sight, literally, of the big picture. Moreover, you can also enable in the function submenu two kinds of split-focusing simulations, both of which work surprisingly well.

Cropmarks

My second favorite function. The cropmarks are masks – you can also make your own – to help you composing through the Live View. I loved my Hasselblad, so I end up a lot of time shooting in a square format. Now I can check directly on camera if the composition works. The only downside is that you can see them only when Live View is in “Movie mode”.

You can download the masks I made here (two 6×6 – one with a grid the other one plain – and two cinematic 16:9 – also one with grid and the other plain):

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/9763620/Cropmask_MagicLantern.zip [important: do not simply copy the following images, they are just for reference but they are not in the correct format]

 

          

And from this guy here you can learn how to make your own masks with PhotoShop (or MS Paint, if you are on Windows):

http://axelgimenez.net/make-custom-crop-marks-in-photoshop-for-magic-lantern/

 

Ghost Image

This can show a transparent overlay that can be generated from any image in Play mode. It is a godsend for multi-exposures lovers and to line the various shots in panoramic photography.

 

Defishing

If you happen to have a Samyang 8mm fish-eye lens this is for you. It lets you preview the rectified image generated from the lens.

 

Spotmeter

Guess what? It is a spotmeter active 24h/7 in the middle of your image that gives you values in a 0-100% scale or in the RGB 0-255 values. If you love Ansel and the zone system you should be more than happy now.

HDR Bracketing

It is an extended shutter and / or Iso bracketing. You can variate the shots up to 5 EV, let the camera auto-detect the number of necessary frames, preview the fused frames and even generate an Enfuse script to align and merge the files once they are on the computer.

 

Intervalometer

Exactly what you think. You can program it with a delayed start up to 8 hours, decide the duration between two shots or stop after X pictures.

 

Bulb / Focus ramp

It is a feature for people who like to shoot time-lapses. It adjusts the exposure level while the light changes (hint: think “sunset”).

 

Bulb timer

You can now program exposures up to an 8h (yes, hours) length.

 

LCD Sensor Remote

This is awesome. You can actually shoot the camera, and even enabling mirror lock-up, just waving you hand in front of the LCD. No touching necessary. Goodbye vibrations and cable releases! Wait, it’s not all, because…

 

Audio Remote Shot

…you can also release the shutter just snapping your fingers! And naturally you can also use this for shooting bullets piercing water filled balloons. 🙂 But wait (again), because you can also…

 

Motion Detect

…have the camera shoot all by itself if it detects movement – or, in alternative, changes in the exposure levels – in the framed area. And for this – and the Audio Remote function – you can even tune the sensitivity.

Trap Focus

Similar to the preceding function, and well known to every sport photographer. You focus where your subject should pass, and wait. When it will be in focus the camera will shoot all by itself.

 

Stack Focus

If you do macro, you know you need this. With this function you will be able to capture a series of pictures of the subject, each of which with a little displacement of the focus plane. Once downloaded on the computer you will have to join them – the camera does not do this for you – and you will have a nice, impossible-to-get-otherwise, extended plane of focus.

LV Contrast / LV saturation

This two let you tweak the aspect of the pictures as they are displayed during Live View (but not how they are registered). This way you can, for example, pump the contrast to focus more easily or desaturate the image to compose straight in black & white.

 

LV Display Gain

With this one you can push the Live View display up to 7 stops more. It means that you can focus withe relative ease in pitch black darkness (astro & concerts photographers, are you listening?).

Image Review Settings…

Here you have a subset of options:
> SET+MainDial: with this you can compare two images, one on top of the other, with a diagonal split (look at the example below)
> Image Review: this alone can convince you to install Magic Lantern. You will not have to press “Play” anymore to zoom in an image, but just push the “zoom in” button
> Quick Zoom: even better. With this enabled one push on the “zoom in” button and you are at 100%; one other push and you are back at the image fitting on the screen.

Live View Zoom Settings…

Another interesting subset of options:
> Zoom 5x & Zoom 10x: you can enable / disable them indipendently
> Auto exposure on Zoom: switch the preview on autoexposure if you zoom, so you can check focus even if you legacy lens is stopped down to f/16 and you don’t have the “Exposure simulation” on in the Live View options
> Increase SharpContrast: increase sharpness and contrast when you use the Live View zoom, to facilitate to check for focus errors
> Zoom on Half Shutter / Zoom with Focus Ring: you will be able to engage the Live View zoom just half-pressing the shutter button or – with certain Canon lenses – just rotating the focus ring.

Shutter Count

This – duh – counts the numbers of shutter & Live View actuations of the camera.

 

Ambient light

It is not calibrated, but it reads the EV level of the ambient light hitting the back of the camera. I may be mistaken, but I think that, doing a bit of homework, I should be able to use this function as a “poor man” incident light meter when I’m too lazy to bring a proper one.

 

Another welcome function is the tiny percentage value that appears over the battery indicator in the rear screen, so you’ll know that those nice full-bars battery is actually going down pretty fast…

 

Last thing: please keep in mind that:

– in addition to this already really long list, Magic Lantern gives you also literally dozens of video-specific functions that I didn’t mentioned here

– almost each of the photographic functions listed above it is customizable to a great extent.

So the only way to get to really know this software is trying it firsthand.

 

In conclusion, a great firmware that needs only to suck up less battery power to became a perfect one.

 

Rating: ★★★★☆ [5 if they will manage to limit the battery drain]

Battle of the 50s: Contax 60 vs Minolta vs Olympus vs Pentax Takumars

Battle of the 50mm lenses: the contestants

The 50mm focal is one of the ones I like the most. Besides, it’s really hard to get a bad 50mm, because the manufacturers have found fool-proof recipes since the dawn of time. So even an old lens should perform splendidly, and the biggest differences with more modern designs should be lack of autofocus and a (sometimes just slightly) less effective coating.

This were my assumptions; below you may find my findings. All the lenses have been shot on a Canon 5D Mark II, full format. With the two Pentax Takumar the same adapter ring has been used to avoid possible adapter-related issues.

 

The contestants 

 

 

Contax-Yashica Zeiss Makro S-Planar
Contax-Yashica Zeiss 60mm f/2,8 Makro S-Planar

A terrific all around lens that goes straight to 1:1. There is also a C-Planar variant, with the same optic, that reaches only 1:2 but it’s a bit more compact. Quite heavy but manageable, for a while has been practically glued to my Canon. It hits the mirror slightly at infinity, at least with the cheap chinese adapter I use. You can find its “solo” test here: Contax 60mm f/2,8 Makro S-Planar.

 

Minolta Rokkor 50mm f/1,7 MD

Minolta Rokkor MD 50mm f/1,7

I remember fondly Minolta optics from when I used to photography with an SRT-101, so I grabbed this one for the price of more or less 5 coffees. It’s plenty sharp, even if it is not the sharpest of this group, and it has a subtle, Leica-like (well, for the money) way to render the colors of a scene that I like very much.

Olympus OM Zuiko Auto-S MC 50mm f/1,8
Olympus OM Zuiko Auto-S MC “Japan” 50mm f/1,8

Another lens, like the Minolta, that you can have for a song. I paid for the adapter the same price I paid for the lens… Very similar to the Minolta in the way it renders a scene, with slightly different tonalities, but way sharper, especially at the borders. Really light and compact.

 

Pentax Takumar 50mm f/1,4

Pentax Super-Takumar 50mm f/1,4

This is the rare-ish first version, with 8 optical elements and without the radioactive one. The legend goes that Pentax created this lens to establish its own name against Zeiss, and that it sold it at a loss for a year before replacing the model quietly with the next contestant, the Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, that cost less to produce. It touches the mirror of the Canon 5D Mark II, in its returning phase, only when set at infinity. With some, supposedly better, adapter does not focus to infinity; not a problem with a cheap chinese one. You can find its “solo” test here: Pentax Super-Takumar 50mm f/1,4 (8 elements design).

Update: Just something I noted in real life pictures but I forgot to add: the Super-Takumar (8-elements) has a lot more depth of field and each stop than the S-M-C Takumar (7-elements). Focused at infinity at f/1.4, for example, the Super-Takumar will render objects at 15-20 meters soft but sharp enough, while the 7-elements will render the same objects really blurry. The difference is definitely here, and it’s striking. I have to yet measure this for the S-M-C, but the Super-Takumar at f/1.4 and at close distance (2-3 meters) has a depth or field of maybe 4-5 millimeters!

 

Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm f/1,4

 

Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm f/1,4

This is the 7 elements design that replaced the more costly Super-Takumar. The construction quality looks the same, but often, due the presence of a radioactive element in the optical scheme that degrades the balsam cementing the lenses glass itself, you’ll find this lens sporting a slightly (or not so slightly) yellow color. It’s said that it suffices to expose the lens to the light of the sun for a few weeks to get rid of that. The lens tested does not presents this phenomenon, but still the color balance of the pictures it produces is noticeably warmer than the 8 elements version. Unlike it’s ancestor it does NOT interfere with the mirror of the 5D Mark II.

 

Pentax M Macro 50mm f/4

 

Pentax M macro 50mm f/4

It should have the same optical scheme of the old, m-42 screw, macro Takumars, just in the K mount. It’s almost the same size of a normal 50mm, but goes to 1:2 and, thanks to the deeply recessed front element, does not need a hood. To use it on a full frame Canon (probably not on an aps-c, but I haven’t tried) you’ll need to cut or file down the rear lever of the automatic aperture and the lip that protects it, otherwise it will scratch the mirror or damage the camera; the metal is pretty soft, and with a Dremel-like tool it’s a matter of maybe 10 seconds. The test pictures of this lens have been shot another day, so the slight differences in color and crop.

 

Side notes

The test has been conducted with the Canon 5D Mark II on a tripod, using a 10 seconds self timer, focusing with Live View @ 10x zoom and the help of a 22x Peak loupe. The crops have no sharpening whatsoever, with the exception of the standard amount of 25% that Adobe Camera Raw applies as a baseline.

This test confirmed what I already suspected, that practically every 50mm out there is a gem and a bargain at the same time, but that due differences in design and in the way an old lens may have “lived” till today some lenses are better suited than others for specific purposes, while others are better all along.

As a side note: the Minolta is incompatible with Canon bodies; its flange-to-film (or sensor) distance is too short to focus at infinity without using an adapter with an optical element. Because such additional optical element can lower the lens quality I followed another road, and adapted the lens in a DIY fashion replacing the original flange with an m42 / Eos ring glued to the lens base and recalibrating the infinity stop. Not the prettiest solution, but works like a charm.

Last, the differences in color that you may see are because I left intentionally the camera in daylight white balance, to show the “personality” of each lens. You can alway narrow down the differences using the automatic white balance, but still some nuances remain, so it’s better to know first if you like them or not. And the borders crop haven’t been brightened, so you can judge how much each lens vignettes on full format (the crops come from the extreme top left border).

On this note, the Super-Multi-Takumar has NOT yellowed; its lenses are perfectly clear, and has been recently cleaned due a mild case of fungus. Still, like you can see, it’s the warmer of the bunch.

 

Bokeh

Speaking of bokeh, they are all pretty good. I’d rate them more or less this way:

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar, Super-Multi-Takumar, Minolta MD

2 – Contax (second only because sometimes its bokeh becomes busy), Olympus, Pentax Macro (not much bokeh due the small aperture, but nice and smooth despite the iris having only 5 blades)

 

The results

Now let’s see how they perform. You’ll find first the 100% crops for each aperture, than my evaluations differentiated for center, borders and mean sharpness. If you want, you can download the image below – it weights 2.8 Mb – with all the crops for all the lenses tested here; just right-click on it and choose “Save as…”:

 

All the crops

 

@ f/1,4 – f/1,8

Minolta 50mm MD at full aperture     Olympus OM Zuiko 50mm at full aperture     Pentax Super-Takumar 50mm 8 elements at full aperture     Pentax S-M-C Takumar 50mm at full aperture

center

Both Takumars look the same, maybe the Super-Takumar a tiny bit sharper; the Olympus is a touch more contrasty but sports the same resolution; the Minolta comes last.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar, Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, Olympus*

2 – Minolta

 

borders

The Olympus has better contrast but less resolution than the Super-Takumar.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Olympus*

3 – Minolta

4 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

mean

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Olympus*

3 – Minolta, Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

*The Olympus at f/1,8 has been compared against both the f/1,4 and the f/2 crops, lacking an f/2 stop.

 

 

@ f/2

Minolta 50mm MD at f/2     Olympus OM Zuiko 50mm at full aperture     Pentax Super-Takumar 8 elements 50mm at f/2     Pentax S-M-C Takumar 7 elements at f/2

center

The Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar is only an hair better than the 8 elements Super-Takumar; the Minolta is last, but just slightly worse than the Olympus.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

2 – Pentax Super-Takumar

3 – Olympus*

4 – Minolta

 

borders

The Olympus has better contrast but less resolution than the Super-Takumar, again.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Olympus*

3 – Minolta

4 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

mean

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, Olympus*

3 – Minolta

 

*The Olympus at f/1,8 has been compared against both the f/1,4 and the f/2 crops, lacking an f/2 stop.

 

 

@ f/2,8

Contax-Yashica Zeiss 60mm Makro S-Planar at full aperture     Minolta MD 50mm Rokkor at f/2.8     Olympus OM Zuiko 50mm at f/2,8     Pentax Super-Takumar 8 elements 50mm at f/2.8     Pentax S-M-C Takumar 50mm at f/2,8 7 elements

center

The Contax starts straight ahead, just behind the two Takumars look almost identical (the Super-Multi-Coated a bit more contrasty); the Olympus has better contrast than at f/1,8 but less resolution!

 

1 – Contax

2 – Pentax Super-Takumar, Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

3 – Olympus

4 – Minolta

 

borders

The Contax is a touch more contrasty than the Super-Takumar.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar, Contax

2 – Olympus

3 – Minolta

4 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

mean

1 – Contax

2 – Pentax Super-Takumar

3 – Olympus

4 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

5 – Minolta

 

 

@ f/4

Contax S-Planar 60mm at f/4     Minolta Rokkor MD 50mm at f/4     Olympus OM Zuiko 50mm at f/4     Pentax Super-Takumar 8 elements at f/4     Pentax SMC Takumar at f/4     Pentax M Macro 50mm f/4 at full aperture

center

The Contax is a touch more contrasty than the Super-Takumar, again; the Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar is not far behind the Minolta.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar, Contax

2 – Minolta

3 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

4 – Pentax macro

5 – Olympus

 

borders

Pentax macro and Contax are behind the Super-Takumar, but at a distance.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Pentax macro, Contax

3 – Minolta

4 – Olympus

5 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

mean

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Contax

3 – Minolta, Pentax macro

4 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

5 – Olympus

 

 

@ f/5,6

Contax Zeiss Makro Planar 60mm at 5,6     Minolta Rokkor MD 50mm at 5.6     Olympus OM Zuiko 50mm at f/5,6     Pentax Super Takumar 8 elements design at 5,6     Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm at 5,6     Pentax M macro at f/5,6

center

Contax first, tied just behind the two Takumars and the Minolta; just a bit worse the Pentax macro.

 

1 – Contax

2 – Pentax Super-Takumar, Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, Minolta

3 – Pentax macro

4 – Olympus

 

borders

The Pentax macro continues to show a uniform behavior at all stops.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Pentax macro

3 – Contax

4 – Olympus

5 – Minolta

6 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

mean

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Contax

3 – Pentax macro

4 – Minolta

5 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

@ f/8

Contax S-Planar macro 60mm at f/8     Minolta MD 50mm at f8     Olympus OM Zuiko at f8     Pentax Super Takumar 8 elements at f/8     Pentax SMC Takumar at f8     Pentax M macro 50mm at f/8

center

The f/8 crop with the Pentax Super-Takumar has been shot another day.

 

1 – Contax

2 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

3 – Pentax macro

4 – Minolta

5 – Olympus

 

borders

The f/8 crop with the Pentax Super-Takumar has been shot another day.

 

1 – Pentax macro

2 – Olympus

3 – Contax

4 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, Minolta

 

mean

1 – Contax, Pentax macro

2 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

3 – Olympus

4 – Minolta

 

After f/8 the diffraction starts to kick in, so let’s just jump to f/16 and see how this lenses perform at a stop fairly useful for depth of field extension purposes.

 

@ f/16

Contax-Yashica Makro Planar s-planar 60/2,8 at f/16     Minolta Rokkor MD 50mm at f/16     Olympus Zuiko OM 50mm at f/16     Pentax Super-Takumar 8 elements design 50mm at f/16     Pentax Super-Multi-Coated S-M-C Takumar 50mm at f/16     Pentax M macro 50mm at f16

center

The Olympus suffers a bit at the intermediate apertures, but it’s great at full aperture and at full closure. Go figure…

 

1 – Olympus

2 – Pentax macro, Pentax Super-Takumar

3 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, Contax

4 – Minolta

 

borders

The Minolta is far behind the Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar.

 

1 – Olympus

2 – Pentax macro

3 – Contax

4 – Pentax Super-Takumar

5 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

6 – Minolta

 

mean

1 – Olympus

2 – Pentax macro

3 – Contax

4 – Pentax Super-Takumar

5 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

6 – Minolta

 

 

Conclusions

I’d say that, even though all the lenses tested here are all spectacularly good, we can make some statements.

– For general use the winners are indisputably the Pentax Super-Takumar 8 elements design and the Contax-Yashica Zeiss Makro S-Planar. They both yield superb resolution and are made to last, even though given the difference in maximum aperture and in maximum magnification they have different strengths.

– For macro use you can’t choose wrong. Yes, the Contax is better, faster and goes down to 1:1; but it costs and weighs a lot more than the Pentax. More, to view the differences in real life pictures you’ll have to split pixels, so I call this a draw.

– For traditional landscape use, i.e. all sharp as a tack, you can’t go wrong with the Super-Takumar (again), the little Olympus or one of the two macro, Contax (again) or Pentax. The choice will be more of a matter of gut / price / look that anything else.

– For a lens to be used mostly for portraits on an aps-c body each and one of them will be excellent; it all will ends up to personal preferences in the rendering and / or in the possibility to snap up a bargain.

– For low light use the Super-Takumar is the best bet, but the S-M-C Takumar, the Minolta or the Olympus will be all excellent choices as well. Keep in mind that in real life pictures those differences so striking in the test charts will be almost invisible, especially using the camera hand held and in poor light.