The cheap bastard guide to (film) photography: introduction

The cheap bastard guide to film photography

If you’re a beginner that never touched a camera before or a digital shooter that wants to dip his toe in the vast pond of film photography you may feel overwhelmed with the amount of choices you face.

After all film cameras have been around quite a bit, so you may find them in all shapes, formats and prices. Where to start? This guide is for you!

I will treat each film format separately, and recommend when possible at least three alternatives: under 50€, under 100/200€ and under 500€. Like I said the choices are many, so I will exclusively talk about cameras and lenses I personally used, or of which I’ve seen examples first hand.

By the way, while 500€ is not by any mean cheap, you have to put things in context: it is still the average price of a good quality compact camera, and less than the price of a decent smartphone.

Especially if you are a complete beginner, you may have trouble just choosing with which format to shoot. There are no rules set in stone, meaning that you can use a large format camera for street photography or shoot landscapes with a 35mm. But below are the most common choices:

Street photography & Reportage

This is the realm of 35mm film. You may also consider “fast” medium format rangefinders like the Fuji GS645.

 

Fashion

In this case medium format is your best bet.

 

Portrait

From 35mm to large format, mostly depending on the style you want to pursue and if you prefer dynamic or more static, posed shots.

 Pentax 67

Landscape

At least medium format, if not large format. That said, a master like Galen Rowell used 35mm cameras for portability.

 

Still-life

You will need probably lots of movements, so shooting large format is recommended.

 

When it comes to choosing what kind of lenses you want to buy you should look at a critical selection of your pictures – the ones you like the most – and compile a small “statistic” of the focal lenght you used the most.

If you are a total beginner you better do the same, but using pictures shot from photography masters or, at the very least, you’ve selected from sites like Flickr, 500px etc. and dividing the results for wide-angles, normal lenses and tele – just check the EXIF datas.

And now a preview of how this series will develop – the links will become active once the corresponding post is online:

 

Part I: 35mm
Part II: Medium format
Part III: Large format
Part IV: Films and developers
Part V: Digitizing the pictures

 

Next time we’ll start with the 35mm.

 

How many megapixels do you need?

How many megapixels do you need to print on a specific paper size

I made this simple table for personal use, than I thought it may came in handy to others too, so here we are.

It sums up how many megapixels do you need to print on each of the more common paper sizes available.

Given that the level of quality requested varies according to the kind of image – a portrait will be more enlargeable without artifacts or softness than a detailed landscape, for example – I’ve set three thresholds at 200, 260 and 300 dpi.

Please note that here we are talking about PRINT resolution, not PRINTER one.

If you don’t have this point clear please read one of the basic introductions available online. Let’s suffice to say that normally you will have to “stretch” the megapixel of your picture onto the area you intend to print; to have a quality result you don’t want to stretch them too much, and that’s what I’m talking about.

Printer resolution, on the other end, refers to the way printers manage to actually create an image putting thousand of ink dots one after the other on a piece of paper.

While print resolution – how many megapixels you need to cover the area of a piece of paper – it is alway the same regardless of the device used to create the image on paper, printer resolution varies wildly between models, makers and technologies used.

Panorama multishot Olympus shift 35mm f/2,8 OM Zuiko

And now let’s look at the table. In the first column you find the paper format; in the seconds its size; in the third, fourth and fifth how many megapixels do you need for each print resolution, from the worst (200 dpi, in red) to the best (300 dpi, in green). You may pull it off with 200 dpi if the viewing distance for your print is not very close, especially if there is an actual physical impediment for the people to getting closer; otherwise everyone usually tends to stuck its nose to the print searching for more detail – and at 200 dpi this detail it will simply not be there.

In the last column I’ve listed how many shots you will need to use if you decide to join multiple frames in a matrix fashion to achieve a resolution of 300dpi with a 21-24 Megapixels camera* (first number is the total of shots needed, then how many shots rows x columns).

 

*With a 20% margin of juxtaposition to join the frames flawlessly

 

Paper format

Paper size
(mm / in)

200dpi260dpi300dpiN° of shots
[rows x columns]
A01189 x 841mm
46.8 x 33.1″
628914015 [ 5 x 3 ]
800 x 800mm
31.4 x 31.4″ 
3957899 [ 3 x 3 ]
A1841 x 594mm
33.1 x 23.4″ 
3145706 [ 3 x 2 ]
700 x 700mm
27.5 x 27.5″ 
304468 6 [ 3 x 2 ]
600 x 600mm
23.6 x 23.6″ 
223250 4 [ 2 x 2 ] 
A2594 x 420mm
23.4 x 16.5″ 
2235 2 [ 2 x 1 ]
500 x 500mm
19.6 x 19.6″ 
2235 2 [ 2 x 1 ]
A3420 x 297mm
16.5 x 11.7″
 11 17

 

How to: semi-stand development in Rodinal

Foma Fomapan 100 in Rodinal semi-stand 1+200

Full disclosure: I’m badly biased in favor of Rodinal.

If you don’t know it (but it has been around from the end of the 19th century…) it is one of the best black and white film developers out there, and these are its pros and cons:

 

PROS

Amazing tonalities with almost any film
Super-sharp results
Infinitely scalable contrast
It lasts years without spoiling
Ultra cheap – you need only tiny amounts of it

CONS

For the same reason of point 2 of the PROS list it will emphasize the film grain

 

The – only – con(s) needs a bit of explanation. First of all it depends quite a bit from your agitation scheme too. Secondly more than enlarging the grain the Rodinal tends to render it in a sharper and more “honest” way, giving the single grain clumps a peppery aspect.

Given that, like I said, this developer it is going around from the late 1800s the original Afga patent is long expired. So you can actually find “Rodinal” sold under a lot of different brand names, but almost every one will refer to it, somewhere in the description, with its original, “real” name. And if you want you can also make it yourself, in the best DIY spirit, starting with a bit of paracetamol (a hint: search the web for “Parodinal” if you’re interested in the recipe).

Shanghai GP3 in Rodinal semi-stand 1+200

I like to use this amazing jake of all trades of developer at almost any dilution, depending on the light on the scene, the film I’m using, how lazy I feel that particular day and so on.

At this regard I will publish in an upcoming post a list of films / developers combinations that in my opinion tends to produce really beautiful results, so stay tuned. But a combo is my bread and butter, the one to which I default more often that I care to admit.

I’m talking obviously about the one mentioned in the title: Rodinal semi-stand at a dilution of 1+200 – yes, it is not a typo, TWO-HUNDRED; I said it was ultra cheap to use! In practice you dilute 5 milliliters of Rodinal in 1 liter of water, and you’re set. With this amount you can develop up to 2 rolls of 135mm or 120.

The full procedure will be carried in semi-stand development, and in detail it is composed of the following steps:

 

Step by step

1  Pre-soak = 5 / 10 minutes (depending on the film you use)
Fill the tank with water and let it rest; change it a couple of times until it comes out clear

 Developer = 2 hours (yes, 120 minutes)
Agitate the first 30 seconds, and then again invert the tank a couple of times at the 60 minutes mark (this is to avoid the bromide drag, a border effect similar to a bad sharpening halo between high contrast regions)

3  Stop bath = 1 minute
Just plain water; it is an optional passage, mostly to prolong the fixer solution life

4  Fixer = 4 / 5 minutes (depending on the dilution you use)
Agitate the first 10 seconds and then 5 inversions every 30 seconds

5  Wash = use the Ilford archival method
Fill the tank and do 5 gentle inversions, then refill and do 10 inversions, refill one last time and invert the tank 20 times. This will guarantee – per Ilford research center – archival quality without wasting water

6  Photoflo (wetting agent) = 2 minutes
Use 2 / 4 drops of Photoflo – or of a neuter PH dish soap -, fill the tank agitating it for 1 minute to create foam and let it rest for another 30-60 seconds

7  Hang the film to dry

8  Scan the film

Done!

Shanghai GP3 in Rodinal semi-stand 1+200

What makes the semi-stand development in general, and in Rodinal more so, special is the enormous quantity of information you can pull out of your films. The semi-stand process act as a compensator, so you will be left with a huge, and vastly customizable after scanning, tonality scale on your negative. Just to be clear: a digital file, even an HDR one, doesn’t come near not even in the least. At the same time, though, thanks to the characteristics of the Rodinal, you will not sacrifice the details; quite the opposite.

Summing up: you will get the true, only and original “raw” file that, after careful scanning – preferably with an high end scanner or using a digital camera with my method -, you will be able to interpret to your heart content, sure that each and every light value you may need will be on film – so no more blown out highlights, blocked out shadow or stepped histograms!

And as added bonuses not only you will have a lot of room to spare at the time of the exposure, even if you like to “guess” the exposure or using the reference card inside the film boxes; but you will also get to enjoy the time you would otherwise have spent agitating the tank with your significant other / friends / children – take a pick!

Give it a try, and I’m sure you will be hooked.

 

Review: Nikon Nikkor 20mm f/3,5 UD

Nikon 20/3,5 UD

Today we’ll talk about an old timer, the Nikkor 20mm f/3,5 UD. It is a pre-Ai (or non-Ai, if you prefer) lens from the late ’60, and it certainly shows. It is beautifully crafted, something you have to handle to fully appreciate it. Even the lens cap is amazing: a single piece of what I think is aluminum that screws on the filter ring…

 Nikon 20/3,5 UD lens cap

If you look at pictures of the lens it appears to be quite big, especially compared to its more modern 20mm Nikon counterparts. It is not. It is a really compact lens, the size more or less of a 50mm; it is just not extra tiny like its modern AF sibling.

 

For the sake of clarity: the UD in the name stands for the number of the elements used, not for some special kind of glass. U for Unus, or one in Latin, and D for Decem, or ten. So 11 elements in total (1+10). It was usual for various manufacturers in the 60s to indicate the number of the elements used with some kind of alphabetic code; for example Minolta and Olympus too did a similar thing using the relative place of the letters in the alphabet – so G = 7 elements, H = 8 elements etc.

 

I’m quite sure that, in order to mount it on a relatively modern – less than 30 years old, film or digital – Nikon camera you should have it converted to Ai, this in order to avoid damages to the electrical contacts on the lens mount.

 

To mount it, as I do, on a full-frame Canon body, and possibly even on a APS-C sized body, you will have to do an easy, but more invasive, modification. On the rear of the lens there is a small metal leap.

 

Posterior metal leap Nikon 20/3,5 UD

Picture courtesy of KenRockwell.com

 

You will have to remove this with a Dremel – much faster – or a file. The metal is pretty soft, so, presuming you are using a power tool, it will take maybe 10 seconds top. Just be sure to pack the lens in aluminum foil or cellophane to avoid the possibility of specks of debris entering inside it. After the modification the back of your lens should be flush with the lens mount, so should look like this.

Nikon Nikkor 20mm f/3,5 back after modification

 

Now, how the lens performs? It is worth all this trouble?

The answer is most definitely a yes. I paid for mine a bit more than 100€. In return I gained a beautifully crafted, though and, yes, sharp lens that will fit comfortably in my pocket when not in use.

 

It is sharp, straight from full aperture. It is very sharp from f/5,6, and landscape-ready, meaning perfectly sharp all over, from f/8 – with minimal differences from f/5,6. The best aperture for the borders is f/11 – but again, here we are pixel peeping.

 

The biggest flaw is the amount of chromatic aberration. It is quite a bit more we are used to nowadays, but it is easily fixable in PhotoShop or Lightroom. And if you profile the lens – with the free Adobe Lens Profile – or if you use the automatic fix in RawTherapee the solution is literally one click away.

 

Another interesting feature of the Nikon 20mm f/3,5 UD is that its quality doesn’t crumble at the closest apertures. It looses sharpness because of diffraction, obviously, but it is still plenty usable even at f/22, the closest aperture.

Paths in the snow Nikon 20/3,5 UD

Maybe one of the last incarnations of the Nikon 20mm, one of the f/2,8 versions, is a tiny bit better optically, especially in the chromatic aberration department. Frankly I don’t know, because the last time I used one of those was on film. But all in all, at 1/3 the price of an used Nikon 20mm f/2,8, and with pretty much the same quality, this is an hell of a lens to have in your arsenal.

Nikon Nikkor 20mm f/3,5 UD

If you are curious to see how it performs against other, more modern, lenses you can check this post of Ken Rockwell (watch out, he compared the extreme borders only):

20mm Sharpness Comparison

 

And please, consider that here it has been compared against some of the best 20s out there. If your alternative is some kind of zoom, even a pro one like the 16/17-something Canon does, this lens will probably win hands down, in both the quality and the price department.

 

Rating: ★★★★☆

Battle of the 50s: Contax 60 vs Minolta vs Olympus vs Pentax Takumars

Battle of the 50mm lenses: the contestants

The 50mm focal is one of the ones I like the most. Besides, it’s really hard to get a bad 50mm, because the manufacturers have found fool-proof recipes since the dawn of time. So even an old lens should perform splendidly, and the biggest differences with more modern designs should be lack of autofocus and a (sometimes just slightly) less effective coating.

This were my assumptions; below you may find my findings. All the lenses have been shot on a Canon 5D Mark II, full format. With the two Pentax Takumar the same adapter ring has been used to avoid possible adapter-related issues.

 

The contestants 

 

 

Contax-Yashica Zeiss Makro S-Planar
Contax-Yashica Zeiss 60mm f/2,8 Makro S-Planar

A terrific all around lens that goes straight to 1:1. There is also a C-Planar variant, with the same optic, that reaches only 1:2 but it’s a bit more compact. Quite heavy but manageable, for a while has been practically glued to my Canon. It hits the mirror slightly at infinity, at least with the cheap chinese adapter I use. You can find its “solo” test here: Contax 60mm f/2,8 Makro S-Planar.

 

Minolta Rokkor 50mm f/1,7 MD

Minolta Rokkor MD 50mm f/1,7

I remember fondly Minolta optics from when I used to photography with an SRT-101, so I grabbed this one for the price of more or less 5 coffees. It’s plenty sharp, even if it is not the sharpest of this group, and it has a subtle, Leica-like (well, for the money) way to render the colors of a scene that I like very much.

Olympus OM Zuiko Auto-S MC 50mm f/1,8
Olympus OM Zuiko Auto-S MC “Japan” 50mm f/1,8

Another lens, like the Minolta, that you can have for a song. I paid for the adapter the same price I paid for the lens… Very similar to the Minolta in the way it renders a scene, with slightly different tonalities, but way sharper, especially at the borders. Really light and compact.

 

Pentax Takumar 50mm f/1,4

Pentax Super-Takumar 50mm f/1,4

This is the rare-ish first version, with 8 optical elements and without the radioactive one. The legend goes that Pentax created this lens to establish its own name against Zeiss, and that it sold it at a loss for a year before replacing the model quietly with the next contestant, the Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, that cost less to produce. It touches the mirror of the Canon 5D Mark II, in its returning phase, only when set at infinity. With some, supposedly better, adapter does not focus to infinity; not a problem with a cheap chinese one. You can find its “solo” test here: Pentax Super-Takumar 50mm f/1,4 (8 elements design).

Update: Just something I noted in real life pictures but I forgot to add: the Super-Takumar (8-elements) has a lot more depth of field and each stop than the S-M-C Takumar (7-elements). Focused at infinity at f/1.4, for example, the Super-Takumar will render objects at 15-20 meters soft but sharp enough, while the 7-elements will render the same objects really blurry. The difference is definitely here, and it’s striking. I have to yet measure this for the S-M-C, but the Super-Takumar at f/1.4 and at close distance (2-3 meters) has a depth or field of maybe 4-5 millimeters!

 

Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm f/1,4

 

Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm f/1,4

This is the 7 elements design that replaced the more costly Super-Takumar. The construction quality looks the same, but often, due the presence of a radioactive element in the optical scheme that degrades the balsam cementing the lenses glass itself, you’ll find this lens sporting a slightly (or not so slightly) yellow color. It’s said that it suffices to expose the lens to the light of the sun for a few weeks to get rid of that. The lens tested does not presents this phenomenon, but still the color balance of the pictures it produces is noticeably warmer than the 8 elements version. Unlike it’s ancestor it does NOT interfere with the mirror of the 5D Mark II.

 

Pentax M Macro 50mm f/4

 

Pentax M macro 50mm f/4

It should have the same optical scheme of the old, m-42 screw, macro Takumars, just in the K mount. It’s almost the same size of a normal 50mm, but goes to 1:2 and, thanks to the deeply recessed front element, does not need a hood. To use it on a full frame Canon (probably not on an aps-c, but I haven’t tried) you’ll need to cut or file down the rear lever of the automatic aperture and the lip that protects it, otherwise it will scratch the mirror or damage the camera; the metal is pretty soft, and with a Dremel-like tool it’s a matter of maybe 10 seconds. The test pictures of this lens have been shot another day, so the slight differences in color and crop.

 

Side notes

The test has been conducted with the Canon 5D Mark II on a tripod, using a 10 seconds self timer, focusing with Live View @ 10x zoom and the help of a 22x Peak loupe. The crops have no sharpening whatsoever, with the exception of the standard amount of 25% that Adobe Camera Raw applies as a baseline.

This test confirmed what I already suspected, that practically every 50mm out there is a gem and a bargain at the same time, but that due differences in design and in the way an old lens may have “lived” till today some lenses are better suited than others for specific purposes, while others are better all along.

As a side note: the Minolta is incompatible with Canon bodies; its flange-to-film (or sensor) distance is too short to focus at infinity without using an adapter with an optical element. Because such additional optical element can lower the lens quality I followed another road, and adapted the lens in a DIY fashion replacing the original flange with an m42 / Eos ring glued to the lens base and recalibrating the infinity stop. Not the prettiest solution, but works like a charm.

Last, the differences in color that you may see are because I left intentionally the camera in daylight white balance, to show the “personality” of each lens. You can alway narrow down the differences using the automatic white balance, but still some nuances remain, so it’s better to know first if you like them or not. And the borders crop haven’t been brightened, so you can judge how much each lens vignettes on full format (the crops come from the extreme top left border).

On this note, the Super-Multi-Takumar has NOT yellowed; its lenses are perfectly clear, and has been recently cleaned due a mild case of fungus. Still, like you can see, it’s the warmer of the bunch.

 

Bokeh

Speaking of bokeh, they are all pretty good. I’d rate them more or less this way:

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar, Super-Multi-Takumar, Minolta MD

2 – Contax (second only because sometimes its bokeh becomes busy), Olympus, Pentax Macro (not much bokeh due the small aperture, but nice and smooth despite the iris having only 5 blades)

 

The results

Now let’s see how they perform. You’ll find first the 100% crops for each aperture, than my evaluations differentiated for center, borders and mean sharpness. If you want, you can download the image below – it weights 2.8 Mb – with all the crops for all the lenses tested here; just right-click on it and choose “Save as…”:

 

All the crops

 

@ f/1,4 – f/1,8

Minolta 50mm MD at full aperture     Olympus OM Zuiko 50mm at full aperture     Pentax Super-Takumar 50mm 8 elements at full aperture     Pentax S-M-C Takumar 50mm at full aperture

center

Both Takumars look the same, maybe the Super-Takumar a tiny bit sharper; the Olympus is a touch more contrasty but sports the same resolution; the Minolta comes last.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar, Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, Olympus*

2 – Minolta

 

borders

The Olympus has better contrast but less resolution than the Super-Takumar.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Olympus*

3 – Minolta

4 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

mean

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Olympus*

3 – Minolta, Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

*The Olympus at f/1,8 has been compared against both the f/1,4 and the f/2 crops, lacking an f/2 stop.

 

 

@ f/2

Minolta 50mm MD at f/2     Olympus OM Zuiko 50mm at full aperture     Pentax Super-Takumar 8 elements 50mm at f/2     Pentax S-M-C Takumar 7 elements at f/2

center

The Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar is only an hair better than the 8 elements Super-Takumar; the Minolta is last, but just slightly worse than the Olympus.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

2 – Pentax Super-Takumar

3 – Olympus*

4 – Minolta

 

borders

The Olympus has better contrast but less resolution than the Super-Takumar, again.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Olympus*

3 – Minolta

4 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

mean

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, Olympus*

3 – Minolta

 

*The Olympus at f/1,8 has been compared against both the f/1,4 and the f/2 crops, lacking an f/2 stop.

 

 

@ f/2,8

Contax-Yashica Zeiss 60mm Makro S-Planar at full aperture     Minolta MD 50mm Rokkor at f/2.8     Olympus OM Zuiko 50mm at f/2,8     Pentax Super-Takumar 8 elements 50mm at f/2.8     Pentax S-M-C Takumar 50mm at f/2,8 7 elements

center

The Contax starts straight ahead, just behind the two Takumars look almost identical (the Super-Multi-Coated a bit more contrasty); the Olympus has better contrast than at f/1,8 but less resolution!

 

1 – Contax

2 – Pentax Super-Takumar, Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

3 – Olympus

4 – Minolta

 

borders

The Contax is a touch more contrasty than the Super-Takumar.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar, Contax

2 – Olympus

3 – Minolta

4 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

mean

1 – Contax

2 – Pentax Super-Takumar

3 – Olympus

4 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

5 – Minolta

 

 

@ f/4

Contax S-Planar 60mm at f/4     Minolta Rokkor MD 50mm at f/4     Olympus OM Zuiko 50mm at f/4     Pentax Super-Takumar 8 elements at f/4     Pentax SMC Takumar at f/4     Pentax M Macro 50mm f/4 at full aperture

center

The Contax is a touch more contrasty than the Super-Takumar, again; the Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar is not far behind the Minolta.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar, Contax

2 – Minolta

3 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

4 – Pentax macro

5 – Olympus

 

borders

Pentax macro and Contax are behind the Super-Takumar, but at a distance.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Pentax macro, Contax

3 – Minolta

4 – Olympus

5 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

mean

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Contax

3 – Minolta, Pentax macro

4 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

5 – Olympus

 

 

@ f/5,6

Contax Zeiss Makro Planar 60mm at 5,6     Minolta Rokkor MD 50mm at 5.6     Olympus OM Zuiko 50mm at f/5,6     Pentax Super Takumar 8 elements design at 5,6     Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm at 5,6     Pentax M macro at f/5,6

center

Contax first, tied just behind the two Takumars and the Minolta; just a bit worse the Pentax macro.

 

1 – Contax

2 – Pentax Super-Takumar, Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, Minolta

3 – Pentax macro

4 – Olympus

 

borders

The Pentax macro continues to show a uniform behavior at all stops.

 

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Pentax macro

3 – Contax

4 – Olympus

5 – Minolta

6 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

mean

1 – Pentax Super-Takumar

2 – Contax

3 – Pentax macro

4 – Minolta

5 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

 

@ f/8

Contax S-Planar macro 60mm at f/8     Minolta MD 50mm at f8     Olympus OM Zuiko at f8     Pentax Super Takumar 8 elements at f/8     Pentax SMC Takumar at f8     Pentax M macro 50mm at f/8

center

The f/8 crop with the Pentax Super-Takumar has been shot another day.

 

1 – Contax

2 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

3 – Pentax macro

4 – Minolta

5 – Olympus

 

borders

The f/8 crop with the Pentax Super-Takumar has been shot another day.

 

1 – Pentax macro

2 – Olympus

3 – Contax

4 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, Minolta

 

mean

1 – Contax, Pentax macro

2 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

3 – Olympus

4 – Minolta

 

After f/8 the diffraction starts to kick in, so let’s just jump to f/16 and see how this lenses perform at a stop fairly useful for depth of field extension purposes.

 

@ f/16

Contax-Yashica Makro Planar s-planar 60/2,8 at f/16     Minolta Rokkor MD 50mm at f/16     Olympus Zuiko OM 50mm at f/16     Pentax Super-Takumar 8 elements design 50mm at f/16     Pentax Super-Multi-Coated S-M-C Takumar 50mm at f/16     Pentax M macro 50mm at f16

center

The Olympus suffers a bit at the intermediate apertures, but it’s great at full aperture and at full closure. Go figure…

 

1 – Olympus

2 – Pentax macro, Pentax Super-Takumar

3 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar, Contax

4 – Minolta

 

borders

The Minolta is far behind the Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar.

 

1 – Olympus

2 – Pentax macro

3 – Contax

4 – Pentax Super-Takumar

5 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

6 – Minolta

 

mean

1 – Olympus

2 – Pentax macro

3 – Contax

4 – Pentax Super-Takumar

5 – Pentax Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

6 – Minolta

 

 

Conclusions

I’d say that, even though all the lenses tested here are all spectacularly good, we can make some statements.

– For general use the winners are indisputably the Pentax Super-Takumar 8 elements design and the Contax-Yashica Zeiss Makro S-Planar. They both yield superb resolution and are made to last, even though given the difference in maximum aperture and in maximum magnification they have different strengths.

– For macro use you can’t choose wrong. Yes, the Contax is better, faster and goes down to 1:1; but it costs and weighs a lot more than the Pentax. More, to view the differences in real life pictures you’ll have to split pixels, so I call this a draw.

– For traditional landscape use, i.e. all sharp as a tack, you can’t go wrong with the Super-Takumar (again), the little Olympus or one of the two macro, Contax (again) or Pentax. The choice will be more of a matter of gut / price / look that anything else.

– For a lens to be used mostly for portraits on an aps-c body each and one of them will be excellent; it all will ends up to personal preferences in the rendering and / or in the possibility to snap up a bargain.

– For low light use the Super-Takumar is the best bet, but the S-M-C Takumar, the Minolta or the Olympus will be all excellent choices as well. Keep in mind that in real life pictures those differences so striking in the test charts will be almost invisible, especially using the camera hand held and in poor light.